Sunday, July 20, 2008

Chichicastenango

Traveling for a few weeks with Rachel before returning to San Marcos La Laguna ...

The market of Chichicastenango begins on the steps of La Iglesia. The Catholic Church, all dressed in white, is home to Mayan rituals, Catholic prayers, ice-cream vendors, chatting gray-haired women, barefoot children selling colorful bracelets, foreign accents and cameras. Rachel and I sit on the white stone of 16th century spirits and children rush to our side. ¨Five Q (quetzales) for this beautiful change purse. The headband, it would look so nice in your hair. What is your name? Where are you from?¨ A seven-year old girl carries her sleeping infant brother, wrapped in cloth, tied to her back. He is dreaming. He is not aware of the busy world happening all around. ¨1Q for a photo.¨She has learned to make a livingthis way. Selling her barefeet, sweet face, sleeping brother to the many tourists who flood this market place.

¨This reminds me of a scene from the Bible,¨ Rachel says. ¨When Jesus walks out of the temple and the townspeople are selling their good right their on the steps. Doesn´t Jesus destroy the temple, or something to that effect?¨ ¨I am not sure,¨I admit. ¨Something like that.¨ The juxtaposition is jarring. Peaceful, white, cold-stone church. Ancient ceremony. And Chichi´s Sunday version of Capitalist economy right outside.

Commerce is overwhelming for me. ¨Stuff¨in every direction. ¨Things¨that we must carry with us, purchase. I am glad my mother is not here to witness this grand carnaval of commerce; she would be handing out bills right and left to the children who run circles around the market, pulling on your shirt-tail and climbing inside your heart. Yes. My sweet mother would be wearing two skirts, three shawls, a handful of necklaces, bracelets and carrying a bag of sewn animalitos and dolls.

Commerce on the steps of the temple. Every Sunday the same. Tourists with their Lands End hats and quick-dry clothing. Chichi natives with their most tantalizing grins. Te doy buen precio! Dios bendiga! Chichicastenango.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Dear Ashleigh,
Just read the last 3 messages of your travels. Such a story to tell. I feel like I am experiencing this with you. THe children must be very beautiful and resilient. Scott always talked about the children entreprenurs---survival of the fittess as they say. So glad to hear from you and look forward to the pictures. Love and hugs to you and Rachel, Mom